Types of fabric. What to sew with, what to wear?
Today, let's dive into the world of fabric types! Even if you're not into sewing, you're likely familiar with different materials. What we wear is just as important as the food we eat or the skincare products we use—it’s what keeps us comfortable, cozy, and feeling like we're wrapped in a second skin. On the other hand, the wrong fabric can leave us feeling overheated or uncomfortable, constantly wishing for a quick shower. In this post, I’ll briefly cover the most essential fabrics and their uses, without overwhelming you with too much technical jargon.
Types of Materials – Different Classifications
Everyone has their own way of categorizing materials, and here’s my approach—not because I like to do things differently, but because it feels the most logical and coherent. Fabrics can be a complex topic, with lots of overlapping names and terms. In this post, I’ll focus on the basic, most commonly used types of materials, explained in simple terms.
When deciding what a fabric is suitable for, there are three key factors to consider: its composition, its weave, and its grammage (or weight per square meter). These aspects will help you understand how and where a fabric can be used.
1. How Are Fibers Interwoven?
The basic distinction here is between woven and knitted fabrics.
Woven fabric is made by interlacing two types of threads—warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal)—at right angles to each other. This structure gives woven fabrics minimal stretch both along and across the threads. As a result, they maintain their shape well and have a more polished appearance, making them ideal for items like trousers or tailored evening gowns.
Knitted fabric, on the other hand, is created by interlocking a single type of thread to form loops or meshes. Knitted garments naturally have more stretch and conform to the body’s shape more easily. They are often more comfortable, provide better freedom of movement, and typically require fewer seams to fit well.
This is just the basic classification—both woven and knitted fabrics come in various types. For example, woven fabrics can have different weaves like satin, linen, or twill. Knitted fabrics, especially for knitters, offer different textures based on how the loops are interlaced, creating various looks and properties. For instance, the ribbing on a sweater, the braids, and the classic knit structure all come from different knitting techniques. Sweatshirts and t-shirts have a similar knit structure but are made with thinner threads.
2. Composition
Fabrics can be made from three main types of fibers: natural, synthetic, and man-made (also called artificial).
Natural fibers come from animals, like silk and various types of wool (cashmere, alpaca, merino), or from plants, such as cotton and flax.
Synthetic fibers are chemically produced, such as polyester, polyamide, and spandex (also known as elastane). While they may have some drawbacks—such as being uncomfortable against the skin and lacking moisture absorption—they have their benefits. For instance, the addition of elastane in jeans allows them to stretch and conform better to the body, improving both fit and durability. Without synthetic fibers, we wouldn’t have practical workwear!
Man-made fibers (sometimes called semi-synthetic in English) are created from cellulose. The most common example in everyday sewing is viscose. This fabric has fantastic properties: it’s breathable like cotton, resists creasing, and feels cool to the touch. Bamboo fabric, which is also made from cellulose, is a popular variation of viscose.
3. Grammage
Imagine buying one meter each of two knitted fabrics. Both have the same color, weave, and composition, but they differ in weight. One meter of the first fabric weighs 150 grams, while the second weighs 400 grams. The heavier fabric will be thicker, with tighter loops, while the lighter fabric will likely be more stretchy and possibly even see-through. This difference in weight—known as grammage—means each fabric will be suited for different uses.
What to Wear?
Which Fabrics to Use for Different Garments?
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Tops and Blouses – For comfortable, casual, or sporty styles, cotton and viscose knits are the go-to fabrics. More formal blouses can be made from materials commonly used for shirts. Sometimes, fabrics are mixed, such as adding a fabric collar to a knitted blouse for a stylish touch.
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Shirts – Standard men's shirts are typically made from cotton fabrics with a linen weave. For lightweight women's shirts, materials like silk, cotton, viscose, linen, or blends of these fabrics work well. A small amount (up to 20%) of synthetic fibers can help reduce creasing and improve durability. Be cautious with summer clothes, though—synthetics are best avoided for hot weather.
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Skirts – The fabric options for skirts are vast! Stiff materials work great for flared skirts, while thicker linen is perfect for pleated dresses. Foam (or diver fabric) is ideal for circle skirts, as its thickness creates a lovely flow. Fitted pencil skirts need fabrics with some stretch, like knits or elastane blends. For lightweight maxi skirts, polyester mist skirts work well—just make sure to wear a petticoat for added volume.
Skirts are the most versatile garment when it comes to fabric choices—the fabric depends entirely on the desired cut and style.
That’s all for today! I know it’s a lot of information, but it’s really just the tip of the iceberg.
Keep in mind, that these are just general guidelines—rules are meant to be broken!
Perhaps you have your favorite materials and use them in your own unique ways? I'd love to hear about your approach!
