Sewing with wool – which one to choose?

Wool has long been one of the most cherished materials, prized for its use in both fashion and interior design. If you are planning to make a coat, you should read this article first. The natural qualities of wool, such as excellent thermal insulation, durability, and aesthetic charm, make it a go-to choice for a wide range of projects.

However, when buying wool fabrics, choosing the right weight is essential. So how do you determine the best weight for your needs? In this article, I’ll explain what fabric weight is, the different types available, and how to select the right one for your specific project. Let’s get into it.

Understanding wool fabric weights

Wool fabric comes in different weights, and this greatly influences how the fabric feels and what types of garments it is best suited for. In simple terms, the weight of wool refers to how thick it is, usually measured in grams per square metre or ounces per yard.

In general, the heavier the wool, the thicker and warmer it will be. Below, we’ll look at the most common wool fabric weights and what they are ideal for.

Lightweight wool (170 to 227 g/m² | 6 to 8 oz per yard)

Lightweight wool is thin, soft, and breathable. It is perfect for garments that need drape while still maintaining some structure. You will often find it used for blouses, skirts, lightweight dresses, and linings for suits and jackets.

This type of wool works beautifully for transitional seasons such as spring and autumn, or for warmer climates where breathability is key.

• Best for: Dresses, skirts, blouses, linings

Medium-weight wool (227 to 340 g/m² | 8 to 12 oz per yard)

Medium-weight wool is the most versatile option and probably my favourite to work with. It is not too light and not too heavy, making it ideal for garments you want to wear year-round.

It is commonly used for blazers, trousers, skirts, and suits. It holds its shape well, which gives garments a polished and structured look, suitable for both professional and casual wear.

• Best for: Suits, blazers, trousers, skirts

Heavyweight wool (340 to 567 g/m² | 12 to 20 oz per yard)

Heavyweight wool fabrics are thick, durable, and highly insulating. These are the fabrics to look for when sewing coats, jackets, and winter outerwear.

They provide structure and a certain stiffness, helping outerwear hold its shape. Keep in mind that this type of wool can be challenging to sew on a domestic sewing machine, especially where multiple layers meet, such as cuffs or pocket areas.

• Best for: Coats, overcoats, heavy jackets, winter outerwear

Wool flannel (283 to 340 g/m² | 10 to 12 oz per yard)

Wool flannel is a soft, slightly brushed wool fabric that is warm yet breathable. It is often used for more casual garments such as trousers, skirts, and jackets.

It is also a popular choice for shackets, a hybrid between a shirt and a jacket that is easy to layer and wear across seasons. The soft texture makes wool flannel comfortable against the skin without the bulk of heavier wools.

• Best for: Trousers, skirts, simple jackets, casual wear

Wool tweed (340 to 454 g/m² | 12 to 16 oz per yard)

Wool tweed is a textured fabric known for its durability and distinctive appearance. It provides both warmth and structure, making it ideal for tailored jackets, coats, and skirts.

I have used it for pieces such as the Astrid Tweed Jacket and the matching Lucille Tweed Pencil Skirt.

One thing to note is that tweed can fray easily. In some cases, increasing seam allowances to 1 cm or 0.4 inch is a smart choice.

• Best for: Tailored jackets, coats, skirts, structured garments

Things to consider when choosing wool fabric weight

Now that you understand the different wool weights, here are a few key factors to help you choose the best one for your project.

1. The type of garment you are making

Different garments require different fabric weights. For example:

• Lightweight wool for drapey dresses or blouses
• Medium-weight wool for blazers, suits, and trousers
• Heavyweight wool for coats and jackets

If you want fluid movement, choose a lighter wool. If structure is important, a heavier wool will serve you better.

2. The season and climate

• For warmer or transitional seasons, choose lightweight or medium-weight wool
• For colder weather, opt for heavier wools such as tweed or flannel

3. The desired drape and structure

• For soft, flowing garments, choose lightweight wool
• For tailored or structured pieces, choose heavier wool

4. Texture and finish

• Wool crepe for subtle texture and drape
• Wool gabardine for smooth, professional garments
• Wool tweed for warmth, texture, and structure

5. Durability

For garments that need to withstand frequent wear, such as outerwear, heavier wools are generally the most durable option.

Final tips for choosing wool fabric weight

• Feel the fabric: Touching the fabric helps you understand its weight and texture.
• Check fibre blends: Wool blends can change drape, durability, and sheen.
• Order swatches: Testing a swatch can save you from costly mistakes.

Choosing the right wool fabric weight is key to achieving the look and feel you want. By considering garment type, climate, drape, and texture, you can make informed choices that lead to beautiful results.

Happy sewing!
Karolina