Choosing Fabric: Why It Needs to Be Felt, Not Explained
The sewing machine can feel intimidating at first. But once you sit with it for a while, guided by its manual, every knob and button slowly starts to make sense. It feels reassuring, almost as if the machine arrives already prepared to teach us how to use it.
But what about the materials we sew with?
Unlike the machine, fabric comes with no instructions. We handle woven fabrics and knits every time we sew, yet how often do we pause to truly understand what they are capable of? What do we need to know to unlock their full potential?
From Paper to Cloth
Have you ever heard of kirigami? It is a variation of origami where paper is cut to create shapes. When I first began learning about garment construction, I thought sewing worked in much the same way. You cut flat shapes, join them together, and somehow a three dimensional form appears.
In some ways, that idea was true.
In many others, it really was not.
Fabric Is Alive
Unlike paper, fabric is alive with movement. I have shared before how the structure of a material, the way its threads intertwine, combined with its weight and fibre type, creates a unique set of properties.
Fabric stretches, shrinks, and sometimes even breaks. Sewing is not about matching lengths perfectly, the way paper would demand. Fabric has a natural flow and softness that paper lacks. To understand it, we have to consider thickness, stretch, and weight, qualities that cannot be calculated in the same neat way.
Learning Through Humility
Sewing is a quiet lesson in humility. There is always more to learn.
Every time I discover a new technique that seems to defy logic or mathematics, I am reminded of how deep this craft really is. Not long ago, I learned that the way you press your trousers can directly affect how well they fit. Small details like this are everywhere.
Did you know that a sleeve sewn on the bias can feel noticeably more comfortable than one sewn strictly on the grain? Or that beautifully sharp collar corners can be shaped using nothing more than your fingers?
When Fabric Misbehaves
Of course, there is always the other side. A dress that stretches out after hanging on the wrong hanger. A lining that peeks out after washing because it shrank differently than the outer fabric. These moments usually happen when the behaviour of a textile has not been fully considered during design or construction.
Even mass production is not immune to these mistakes. For home sewists, learning to navigate them is part of the journey.
Why Fabric Takes Time
Understanding fabric is not something that can be fully taught online. I often receive messages from people who are proud of what they have sewn, yet disappointed by how the fabric behaved. I understand this feeling well.
Early on, I chose fabrics mostly for how they looked or how structured they seemed, without thinking about how they were meant to be used. Over time, these mistakes have become less frequent, but they have never disappeared completely.
Learning fabric is a lifelong process.
Developing an Instinct
That is why today’s reflection is less about technical advice and more about developing instinct. Learning to anticipate how a fabric will behave is just as important as learning how to sew a seam.
Before you begin, ask yourself:
- Will this garment feel too light or too heavy?
- Will the fabric become bulky once layers are joined?
- Does it need stretch, or will structure serve it better?
- How easily will it wrinkle?
The answers come with experience, but they always begin with touch. How the fabric feels in your hands, how it moves, how it responds.
A Gentle Wish for Sewists
My wish for all sewists is simple. Be kind to your fabrics. Stretch them, but gently. Shape them with steam and patience. And before you even buy them, take the time to feel how they move and how much they give.
I am certain that this kind of attention makes us better sewists.
Happy sewing,
Karolina
