Sewing with wool - which one to choose?

Wool has long been one of the most cherished materials, prized for its use in both fashion and interior design. If you are planning to make a coat you have to read this article first! Natural qualities of wool—like excellent thermal insulation, durability, and aesthetic charm—make it a go-to choice for a wide range of projects. But... when buying wool fabrics, choosing the right weight is quite essential. So, how do you determine the best weight for your needs? In this article, I’ll explain what fabric weight is, the different types available, and how to select the right one for your specific project. So let's get into it!

Understanding Wool Fabric Weights

Wool fabric comes in different weights, which really influence how the fabric feels and what types of garments it's best for. In the most simple words, the weight of wool refers to how thick it is, usually measured in grams per meter or ounces per yard. In general— the heavier the wool, the thicker and warmer it will be. Below, we’ll take a look at the most common wool fabric weights and what they’re ideal for.

Lightweight Wool ( 170-227 g/m2 / 6-8 oz per yard)

Lightweight wool is thin, soft, and breathable. It's perfect for garments that need a bit of drape, BUT! still have structure. You can find it commonly used in blouses, skirts, and lightweight dresses, as well as linings for suits and jackets. This type of wool is great for transitional seasons like spring and fall, or for warmer climates where you need something breathable.

• Best for: Dresses, skirts, blouses, and linings.

Medium-Weight Wool ( 227-340 g/m2/ 8-12 oz per yard)

Medium-weight wool is the most versatile wool fabric and probably my favorite type to use. It’s not too light, not too heavy, and it’s ideal for year-round garments. You’ll often see medium-weight wool used for blazers, trousers, skirts, and suits. It holds its shape well, which gives garments a polished, structured look. This weight is ideal for both professional and casual pieces.

• Best for: Suits, blazers, trousers, skirts.

Heavyweight Wool ( 340-567 g/m2 / 12-20 oz per yard)

Heavier wool fabrics are thick, durable, and provide excellent insulation. These are the fabrics you want to look for if you’re making coats, jackets, or any other winter garments. Heavyweight wools are more rigid, so they provide structure and a bit of stiffness, making them ideal for outerwear that needs to hold its shape. It's definitely worth to take into consideration what type of sewing machine you have, as this type of wool can be tricky to work on with a domestic sewing machine, especially on parts that require multiple layers: such as cuffs of pockets. 

• Best for: Coats, overcoats, heavy jackets, and winter outerwear.

Wool Flannel ( 283-340 g/m2/ 10-12 oz per yard)

Wool flannel is a soft, slightly brushed wool fabric that is warm yet breathable. It’s often used for more casual garments like pants, skirts, and jackets and probably most popular shacket << What is a shacket, you ask? In short, it's a combination of a shirt and a jacket, resulting in an easy-to-layer garment you can wear in many ways throughout every season.>> The soft texture makes wool flannel comfortable to wear against the skin, and it’s a great choice for colder weather without the bulk of heavier wool.

• Best for: Pants, skirts, simple jackets, and casual wear.

Wool Tweed ( 340-454 g/m2/ 12-16 oz per yard)

Tweed is a type of textured wool fabric known for its durability and distinctive appearance. It’s usually heavier, with a rougher texture that provides structure and warmth. Wool tweed is often used for tailored jackets, coats, and skirts. Like this jacket that I made: Astrid Tweed Jacket or this matching mini pencil skirt Lucille Tweed Pencil Skirt. The unique weave gives garments a sophisticated, classic look! While working with this fabric through the years, I noticed that it's also a fabric, that is most likely unfortunately to fray. Making those 1 cm/ 0.4" seam allowances wider is crucial at times.

• Best for: Tailored jackets, coats, skirts, and structured garments.

Things to Consider When Choosing Wool Fabric Weight

Now that you understand the different wool weights, it’s time to consider a few important factors to help you choose the best one for your project.

1. The Type of Garment You’re Making

Different types of garments require different fabric weights. For example:

• Lightweight wool is perfect for drapey dresses or blouses.
• Medium-weight wool is ideal for structured pieces like blazers, suits, or trousers.
• Heavyweight wool is best for outerwear like coats or jackets.

If you want a garment with a lot of movement and fluidity, opt for a lightweight wool. If you’re making something that needs to hold its shape, like a tailored blazer or coat, then a heavier wool would be more appropriate.

2. The Season and Climate

Wool is versatile and can work in both cold and warm weather, but the weight you choose will depend on the season and climate:

• For warm weather or transitional seasons, go for lightweight wool or medium-weight wool. These fabrics will keep you comfortable without being too heavy or hot.
• For cold weather, you’ll want heavier wool fabrics, like wool tweed or wool flannel, to keep you warm and insulated.

3. The Desired Drape and Structure

The drape of a fabric refers to how it falls and moves. Lighter fabrics tend to have a more fluid, soft drape, while heavier fabrics hold their shape more rigidly.

• If you're after a garment with a softer, flowy feel (like a dress or skirt), go with lightweight wool.
• If you want something with structure (like a tailored jacket or coat), you’ll need a heavier wool.

4. The Texture and Finish of the Fabric

Wool comes in a variety of textures depending on how it’s woven or finished. Consider the fabric’s surface texture:

• Wool crepe has a slight crinkled texture, adding a unique dimension to garments and is perfect for dresses or skirts.
• Wool gabardine is smooth and tightly woven, making it ideal for professional attire like suits and trousers.
• Wool tweed is textured and often used in jackets and coats for added warmth and style.

5. The Durability of the Fabric

If you’re making something that needs to stand up to wear and tear, such as outerwear or workwear, opt for a heavier wool or wool tweed, as these fabrics tend to be more durable. Lighter wool fabrics might not hold up as well over time, especially with frequent wear.

Final Tips for Choosing Wool Fabric Weight

• Feel the fabric: If possible, touch the fabric before purchasing. This will give you a sense of its weight and texture.
• Consider blending: Sometimes, wool is blended with other fibers like polyester, silk, or cotton to alter its drape, durability, or sheen. Pay attention to the fabric content to ensure it matches your project needs.
• Test swatches: If you’re unsure, order a swatch to test how the fabric handles in your hands and whether it works with your pattern.

Choosing the right wool fabric weight is essential for achieving the desired look and feel in your sewing projects. By considering the type of garment, the climate, the fabric’s drape, and its texture, you can make a more informed decision that will ensure your project turns out beautifully. Whether you’re sewing a light blouse for spring or a heavy winter coat, there’s a wool fabric weight that’s perfect for your needs.

Happy sewing!

Karolina