How to Finish Knits Without an Overlocker

If you have ever sewn with knit fabrics, you already know how challenging finishing raw edges can be, especially without a coverstitch or overlocker. Knits need seams that can stretch and recover, yet many common finishing methods either distort the fabric or fail over time. Seams stretch out, stitches pop, or edges ripple in a way that never quite looks intentional.

After testing different approaches, I developed a simple method that creates a clean, stretchy, and durable finish using only a regular sewing machine and a narrow elastic. It is an easy technique, but one that makes a noticeable difference, especially for home sewists working with knits.

This method is ideal if you enjoy sewing knit garments and want professional looking results without specialised equipment.

Why Finishing Knits Is Tricky Without Special Machines

Knit fabrics are naturally elastic, which is what makes them so comfortable to wear. That same quality, however, makes them difficult to finish neatly. Most standard sewing machine stitches are not designed to stretch enough, and when seams are topstitched or finished, the fabric often stretches during sewing.

This usually leads to seams that:

• look wavy or distorted once stretched
• lose elasticity along the stitch line
• gather or ripple at the edge
• pop or break with wear

Even seams that look perfectly fine when flat can behave very differently once worn. When stretched, the stitch line often cannot recover, leaving the edge distorted and uncomfortable.

A Simple Alternative: Using Elastic Inside the Seam

To solve this, I began experimenting with soft elastic as a built in support for the seam edge. The goal was to keep the flexibility of the knit while adding structure and a clean finish. The result was far better than I expected.

By incorporating elastic directly into the seam allowance, the seam is supported without being stiff. It stretches with the fabric, recovers well, and stays flat over time.

What You Need

• Soft elastic, about 1.2 cm wide. The type commonly used for lingerie straps works best.
• A stretch needle for your sewing machine
• A zigzag stitch or another stretch compatible stitch

How to Sew It

1. Sew your garment seam as usual using a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag
2. Cut a strip of elastic the same length as the seam
3. Place the elastic along the raw edge of the seam allowance on the wrong side of the fabric
4. Stitch the elastic to the seam allowance using a zigzag or three step zigzag stitch
   Do not stretch the elastic while sewing.
5. Trim away any excess seam allowance close to the elastic edge
6. Fold the seam allowance, including the elastic, toward the inside of the garment
7. Topstitch through all layers to secure the folded edge in place

The raw edge is now enclosed, supported, and able to stretch naturally.

What Is Plush Elastic

Plush elastic is a soft, stretchy elastic with a velvety surface on one side. It is commonly used in lingerie, loungewear, waistbands, and baby clothes, anywhere comfort matters.

Inside, it has a stretch core wrapped in a knit or woven layer, usually polyester or nylon. The plush side is brushed, making it gentle against the skin, while the opposite side is slightly firmer and more stable.

For knit garments, plush elastic is especially pleasant to wear and easy to sew. It works beautifully with zigzag stitches and does not require industrial machines, making it ideal for home sewing.

Why This Method Works

This technique offers several advantages:

• Stretch is preserved
  The elastic moves with the fabric, so the seam stretches and recovers without popping stitches.
• The seam is stabilised
  The elastic prevents the edge from stretching out during sewing or wear.
• A clean finish
  Raw edges are fully enclosed and the inside looks as neat as the outside.
• No special equipment needed
  A regular sewing machine is all you need.

When to Use This Technique

This method works particularly well for:

• necklines and armholes on knit tops and dresses
• seam finishes in activewear and stretch lingerie
• lightweight jerseys that curl or distort easily
• any area where a flat, stretchy, and durable seam is needed

If you enjoy sewing knits and want a reliable finish without investing in additional machines, this elastic technique is a wonderful addition to your sewing toolbox. It is simple, effective, and produces seams that hold up beautifully through wear and washing.

Happy sewing,

Karolina