Sewing the Maeva Jacket in Sherpa Fabric

This post is all about sewing the Maeva Jacket using corduroy sherpa fabric, a two-layer fabric that gives warmth, structure, and a beautiful textured finish without the need for a lining.

If sewing with sherpa feels intimidating, don’t worry. This jacket was designed to work with thick fabrics and to be sewn on a domestic machine. The techniques may be a little different from standard garment sewing, but they are simple, repetitive, and very satisfying once you get started.

Let’s get straight into the sewing.

About the fabric

For this version of Maeva, I used a corduroy sherpa fabric, which consists of two layers fused together: a corduroy outer layer and a soft sherpa layer on the inside.

Before sewing, it is essential to check whether these two layers can be separated slightly at the edges. Gently pull them apart with your fingers. This step is important because the finishing technique used throughout the jacket relies on separating the layers at the seam allowance.

Sherpa fabric should not be pressed. Instead of shaping with heat, the jacket is finished through trimming, folding, and topstitching, which keeps the texture intact and avoids flattening the pile.

Cutting and preparation

Cut all pattern pieces according to the instructions. Take your time during cutting, especially with thicker fabrics, as accuracy here makes the rest of the sewing process much easier.

For this project, seam allowances vary depending on the area. Most seams use 1 cm, while some edges require 2 cm. These differences are always noted in the pattern and are important for achieving a clean finish.

Sewing the pockets

The pockets are sewn first and introduce the main finishing technique used throughout the jacket.

At the top edge of the pocket, measure 2 cm from the edge and carefully separate the two fabric layers along that line. Once separated, trim away the sherpa layer, leaving only the corduroy layer for folding.

Fold the corduroy layer twice over the remaining sherpa layer and secure it with topstitching. This creates a neat, durable edge without raw seams and without using an overlocker.

Repeat the same process for the second pocket.

Attach the pockets to the front panels. Start sewing from the side seam using a 1 cm seam allowance, then switch to a 2 cm seam allowance around the pocket. This step is important, as it allows the pocket edge to overlap cleanly with the front panel finishing later on.

Front panels and neckline

Using the same method as for the pockets, separate the two layers of fabric along the front edges and neckline. Trim away the sherpa layer close to the seam line, stopping slightly below the pocket edge so the layers can overlap neatly.

Fold the corduroy layer twice over the sherpa and clip it in place. For curved areas, especially around the neckline, gathering stitches can help distribute the fabric evenly and make folding easier.

Topstitch along the entire front edge. Once finished, remove any gathering threads. This technique gives the jacket its clean, structured look without adding bulk.

Repeat the same steps for the second front panel.

Back panel

Sew the two back pieces together at the centre back with a 1 cm seam allowance. Push the seam allowance to one side and topstitch it down for strength and a clean finish.

At the hem, separate the two fabric layers, trim away the sherpa layer at the seam allowance, and double fold the corduroy layer twice before topstitching. Trimming excess bulk here helps the jacket sit better when worn.

Assembling the body

Join the front and back pieces at the shoulders and side seams, sewing up to the collar area with a 1 cm seam allowance.

The collar is sewn with wrong sides together so that the seam allowance ends up hidden inside when worn. After sewing, trim the seam allowance and attach the collar to the neckline, again using a 1 cm seam allowance.

At this stage, the shape of the jacket is clearly visible. Maeva can also be finished as a vest by completing the armholes instead of adding sleeves.

Sleeves and cuffs

Sew the sleeve seams with a 1 cm seam allowance, then push the seam allowance to one side and topstitch.

The cuffs are finished using the same method as the pockets and hem. Separate the fabric layers, trim away the sherpa layer, double fold the outer fabric, and topstitch.

The cuffs are slightly smaller than the sleeve opening, which allows soft pleats to form when they are attached. Fold the pleats away from the body and sew the cuffs to the sleeves. The cuffs are designed to be worn folded back, showing a contrast between the outer fabric and the inside.

Insert the sleeves into the armholes and sew with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Buttons and buttonholes

For this jacket, I used self-covered buttons made from leftover corduroy. The sherpa layer is removed, leaving only the corduroy for a clean and sturdy button covering.

With very thick fabrics, standard buttonholes can be difficult on a domestic machine. An alternative method using a narrow zigzag stitch works well and allows you to create strong, neat buttonholes without skipped stitches.

Button placement is flexible. You can use one, two, or three buttons depending on your preference.

One last thing

Maeva may look like a complex jacket, but it is built from simple, repeated techniques designed specifically for thick fabrics like sherpa. Once you understand the layer separation and folding method, the rest of the sewing flows naturally.

It’s a practical, warm jacket that feels just as good to sew as it does to wear.

The Maeva Jacket sewing pattern is now available on my website. I’m looking forward to seeing your versions and fabric choices.

Happy sewing,

Karolina