How to Sew a Fully Lined Jacket – Meet the Sarah Jacket

Not sure what the difference is between A4, US Letter and A0 pattern formats? I wrote a very practical post explaining everything. You can read it here.

The pattern comes with an instruction booklet that includes detailed written instructions, as well as a full video sewing tutorial available on YouTube, so you can follow the entire construction of the jacket.

What Is the Best Fabric for Sewing a Jacket?

One of the best things about the Sarah Jacket is how different it can look depending on the fabric you choose. For my version, I used a beautifully soft floral-textured faux fur fabric, with raised 3D flowers across the surface. It has a lovely, fluffy texture and gives the jacket a slightly romantic, vintage-inspired look. I must say, this type of combination is my favourite. I bought this fabric a couple of years ago, and it’s been sitting on my shelf for way too long.

For the lining, I chose satin. I love the contrast between the soft, textured exterior and the smooth, silky inside. It also makes the jacket comfortable to slip on over other clothes, but don’t let satin fool you! It can sometimes be tricky to work with, especially when using it for lining. It stretches when you sew and moves around, so you have to be very careful while sewing. The fabric is so thin that it’s easy to accidentally catch parts of it in the seams that you didn’t mean to sew.

There are plenty of other fabrics that would work beautifully for this jacket, too.

Recommended Fabrics for the Sarah Jacket

• Teddy fleece: Very soft, warm and cosy. In my opinion, this is the most iconic fabric to use for this type of jacket.
• Sherpa: Another lovely option if you like a fluffy, cosy jacket. Definitely option if you want to make more of a winter jacket.
• Faux fur: This is what I used for my version. You can choose a plain faux fur or something with a more interesting texture, like my floral fabric. Just remember that thicker fabrics can make some seams a little bulky.
• Wool or wool blends: A great choice if you prefer something a little more classic. I would go for a medium-weight wool that isn't too stiff. This shape it's all about comfort remember!
• Fleece: Probably one of the easiest fabrics to work with for this project, especially if you're fairly new to sewing. Choose a stable fleece that doesn't stretch too much would be my suggestion.

You don't necessarily need a very thick fabric to make this jacket. Since Sarah is fully lined, you have a little more freedom when choosing your materials.

One thing I would recommend is to avoid fabrics that are extremely stretchy, especially if this is your first jacket. Stretchy fabric isn't impossible to work with, but you'll need to pay more attention when sewing the zipper and attaching the sleeves so you don't accidentally stretch everything out of shape.

What Do You Need to Sew the Sarah Jacket?

For this jacket you'll need a couple more things than usual. Here's the complete list of everything you'll need for this project. The fabric requirements are the same for all sizes, and there's actually not much interfacing needed. I used a lightweight fusible interfacing (approximately 80–100 GSM) to give the collar some structure and reinforce the facing pieces where the eyelets will be installed.

Fabric Requirements

• Main fabric: 2 m (2.2 yards)
• Lining fabric: 2 m (2.2 yards)
• Fusible interfacing: 40 cm (16 inches)

Other Supplies

• Open-end zipper: I used a 65 cm (25.6 in) plastic zipper, but the length depends on your size.
• Metal eyelets: I used 8 mm (0.31 in) eyelets.
• Hammer and eyelet-setting tool: For installing the eyelets.
• Elastic cord: For the adjustable hem.
• Cord stoppers: To adjust the elastic at the hem.
• Elastic: For the sleeve cuffs.
• Basic sewing tools: Sewing machine, matching thread, scissors, pins or clips, measuring tape and safety pin.

 If you've never installed metal eyelets before, don't worry! It's easier than it looks, and I'll share a few tips further down.

How to Sew Hidden Pockets into a Jacket

Let's start with one of my favourite details of this jacket: the pockets. I wanted Sarah to have pockets, obviously, but I didn't want them to be visible from the outside. So instead of adding patch pockets, I designed them to sit inside the front panel seams.

The great thing about this construction is that the pockets are actually very straightforward to sew. The front of the jacket is made from two separate panels. You first attach the pocket pieces to each panel, then join the panels together, sewing around the pocket bag as you go. And that's pretty much it!

Once you open the front panels, you'll have a beautifully hidden pocket that you can barely see from the outside. There is one little technique I would recommend here, and that's understitching.

After attaching the pocket pieces, I understitch the seam allowances towards the pocket lining. This helps the pocket opening sit flat and prevents the lining from rolling towards the outside of the jacket. It's such a simple thing, but it makes a really nice difference to the finished pocket.

My Favourite Tip for Sewing Jacket Pockets

Here's something I always recommend when making pockets like these. Before sewing the front and back of the jacket together, I secure the pocket bags to the centre front edges, exactly where the zipper is going to be attached later.

Why? Because sometimes when you put your hands into your pockets and then pull them out, the pocket lining comes out with your hands. And that's quite annoying! By securing the pocket bags to the centre front, everything stays neatly inside the jacket. It's a tiny extra step, but definitely worth doing.

How to Sew a Standing Collar

The Sarah Jacket has a standing collar, which I think works particularly well with thicker fabrics like teddy fleece, faux fur or wool. You can wear it standing up, especially on colder days, or fold it down if you prefer a more different look.

For this jacket, you'll need to cut two collar pieces, from the main fabric. I decided to apply lightweight fusible interfacing to both pieces. This gives the collar a little more structure and helps it keep its shape without making it too stiff. If you're using a very thick or already structured fabric, I would recommend testing your interfacing first. You might not need as much support as you think.

As for the construction, it's quite simple. You'll mark the centre back of your collar and the jacket neckline (at this point your jacket and lining should be done), match those points together and pin the collar around the neckline.

Then sew everything together using a 1 cm (3/8 in) seam allowance. Later, when attaching the lining, I also secure the collar seam allowances together on the inside of the jacket.

 This is another small detail that I think is worth mentioning. It helps keep the collar in place and prevents the lining from pulling or shifting it while you're wearing the jacket. And don't worry, those stitches won't be visible from the outside.

How to Sew an Open-End Zipper into a Jacket

I know that sewing a zipper can be a little intimidating, especially if you've never made a jacket before. But I promise, an open-end zipper isn't as complicated as it might look. An open-end zipper is simply a zipper that separates completely at the bottom, like the ones you find on most jackets and coats. For my Sarah Jacket, I used a 65 cm (25.6 in) plastic zipper ( depending on which size you're making you might need a longer zip).

The zipper is attached to the centre front of the jacket before adding the lining. One important thing to remember is to leave a 1 cm (3/8 in) seam allowance at the bottom of the zipper, because we'll need that space later when attaching the lining. And if you're working with a stretchy fabric like mine, please be careful not to pull or stretch it while sewing.

Otherwise, you might end up with a wavy zipper, which isn't exactly the look we're going for. Something you might notice in my video tutorial is that I'm actually using my regular presser foot rather than a zipper foot. This was intentional! I didn't want to sew too close to the zipper teeth, so the regular foot worked perfectly well for me. Once both sides are attached, I always close the zipper to check that everything lines up correctly before moving on. The nice thing about making a fully lined jacket is that the zipper tape will eventually be hidden between the outer fabric and the lining, so the inside looks very neat too.

How to Sew a Fully Lined Jacket

Now, this is probably my favourite part of the whole construction. It's where you can see the real progress of jacket/coat making in my opinion. I know that sewing a fully lined jacket sounds like quite a big project, but I really think this is one of the easiest ways to do it.

The idea is very simple: you make two jackets. One from your main fabric and one from your lining fabric. Of course, there are a few small differences, but the construction is almost identical. You'll sew the shoulder seams, side seams, sleeves and collar of the lining in the same way you did for the outer jacket. The lining also has facing pieces, which are cut from your main fabric rather than the lining. These create a lovely finish around the bottom of the jacket and help support the eyelets for the adjustable hem.

Once you've finished both layers, you'll place them right sides together and sew around the edges, including the zipper and collar. The only thing you need to remember is to leave an opening of approximately 15–20 cm (6–8 in) at the bottom. This is where we're going to turn the entire jacket right side out. And yes, the whole jacket, including the sleeves! I know it might look like there's no way all that fabric will fit through such a small opening, especially if you're using something fluffy like mine, but it does. Just take your time and gently pull everything through.

Before turning the jacket, I also secure the collar seam allowances together to keep the collar neatly in place. Once everything is turned right side out, all those seams are beautifully hidden between the two layers. I find this technique so satisfying because you end up with a properly lined jacket without having to finish every single seam separately.

How to Sew an Adjustable Elastic Hem

Another detail I really wanted to include in this pattern was an adjustable hem. I love the idea of being able to change the shape of a jacket depending on how I want to wear it. You can leave Sarah loose and relaxed, or pull the elastic cord to gather the bottom and give it a more rounded shape. And the construction is actually very simple.

How to Add Metal Eyelets to a Jacket

For my version, I used 8 mm (0.31 in) metal eyelets. I say in my version because there's no right or wrong here, you also might use those eyelets you had laying around in your drawer for ages. Since they are on the inside you won't see them.

There are four eyelets in total, two on each side of the jacket, installed into the facing pieces near the hem. I positioned mine approximately 2 cm (0.8 in) apart, but you can adjust the spacing depending on the size and style of eyelets you're using. The important thing is to make sure the fabric is reinforced with interfacing before installing them. If you've never used eyelets before, I would definitely recommend practising on a scrap piece of fabric first.

You'll need to make a tiny opening in the fabric, position the eyelet pieces and secure them using the setting tool and a hammer. And when I say a tiny opening, I really mean tiny! You can always make it a little bigger if needed, but if you cut too much fabric, the eyelet might not sit securely. Different eyelets can have slightly different installation methods, so make sure to follow the instructions that come with yours.

How to Make an Adjustable Elastic Channel

Once the eyelets are installed and the lining is attached, we can add the elastic cord. The elastic is threaded through the eyelets and secured inside the seam allowance. I like to sew back and forth several times over the ends to make sure they're properly attached. It's worth spending an extra minute here, because once everything is closed, going back to fix the elastic would be quite difficult. The next step is to create a channel along the hem.

To do this, I topstitch along the upper edge of the hem facing, enclosing the elastic cord between the fabric layers. One thing to be careful about is not accidentally sewing over the elastic. It needs to move freely inside the channel so you can adjust it later. Finally, I pull the elastic loops through the eyelets and add the cord stoppers.

I used round plastic stoppers with a small spring mechanism. You simply press the spring, thread the elastic through and release it to lock everything in place. I also added a small knot to each elastic loop so the stoppers wouldn't accidentally slide off. And that's your adjustable hem finished!

Frequently Asked Questions About Sewing a Jacket

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Can I sew the Sarah Jacket with a regular sewing machine?

Yes, absolutely! I made mine using a regular domestic sewing machine. If you're using a thick fabric like faux fur or sherpa, just make sure you're using a needle suitable for the material and take your time when sewing through several layers.

Do I need an overlocker to make a fully lined jacket?

No, you don't! Because the Sarah Jacket is fully lined, the seam allowances are hidden between the outer fabric and lining. You can make the entire jacket using a regular sewing machine.

What is the easiest fabric to use for a beginner jacket?

I would recommend a stable fleece or medium-weight fabric that doesn't stretch too much. Very stretchy fabrics can be a little more difficult to control, especially when sewing the zipper, while thick faux fur can create bulky seams. Both are perfectly possible to work with, but if you're making your first jacket, I would choose something that's relatively easy to handle.

Can I make the Sarah Jacket without the elastic hem?

The pattern is designed with an adjustable elastic hem, but you could adapt the construction if you prefer a straight, loose finish. Just keep in mind that this would require a few changes to the original instructions. If this is your first time making Sarah, I'd recommend following the pattern as it is.

Is sewing a fully lined jacket difficult?

I really don't think it has to be! Of course, there are a few more steps involved than when sewing a simple unlined garment, but the technique I use for Sarah is quite straightforward. You're essentially sewing two jackets and then joining them together, leaving a small opening to turn everything right side out. It's a very satisfying process once you see how everything comes together

Does the Sarah Jacket pattern include seam allowances?

Yes! The pattern includes a 1 cm (3/8 in) seam allowance, so you don't need to add anything when cutting out your pattern pieces.

Ready to Make Your Own Sarah Jacket?

I hope you found this article helpful! It's my first time writing such an in-depth blog post about one of my patterns. My goal was to bring all the information together in one place so you can feel more confident about making this jacket. So many little details get lost between posts, Reels and Stories, and I wanted to give them a proper home here.

If you'd like to make your own, you can find the Sarah Jacket PDF sewing pattern here. The pattern comes with detailed written instructions and a full video sewing tutorial, so you can follow along with me from start to finish. I hope you'll enjoy making this jacket as much as I did!

Happy sewing,

 Karolina